Predator

The Predator and Viper are one of the best things that has happened to promote Quickie racing in many years. There has been a need for a kit for the 424 class of racing. Both the Predator and Viper more than fit the need of a kit. All that you have to do is attach the tail and install the radio gear, well almost. I have listed a few easy modifications that will make your Q500 more durable and will make it fly much better. Remember that these airplanes are built in mass and there are things that you, as a modeler can do to insure that your airplane flies as well as if you had built it yourself.

Do not be afraid of purchasing a either kit. They are built and covered better than most of today's modelers can do in their shop. I am a builder, and I could not do a better job of construction. The Predator comes complete with everything. Tank, wheels, all trays installed… Good job Lanier.

The changes that I recommend are in two parts. The first part, is for the older version of the Predator. Some of these are still available at hobby shops. You cannot determine the version from the box. The easiest way to tell which version you have is by the fuselage. Version 1 has a square tail. Version 2 has a pointed tail.
The improvements in the Version 2 are:
Larger torque rods
Firewall reinforced
One piece wing
V-Tail angle changed to 110 degrees
Fuse tail more streamlined
Wider landing gear
Rear of fuse reinforced
Plywood wing hold downs

Changes recommended for the early version:
Add a 2.25" X 2.25" X 1/8" Plywood doubler on the front of the firewall. This will help keep the firewall attached to the fuselage if you make a landing that hits the muffler.

Change the metric hold down bolts to 1/14-20 nylon bolts. I do not trust myself to keep track of the metric bolts and did not want to show up at a flying field with no bolts and I know that I could not borrow any metric bolts to attach my wing. While I was changing the bolts, I triangulated the wing to the fuse and found that it was off by 1/2 " I corrected it when I made the change. Check your airplane also to see if it is off. If it is, it will cause your Predator to roll to the forward wing.

I also changed the torque rods in the ailerons. I may put a Nelson on my Predator, and I do not feel that the 2mm torque rods are stiff enough. The change is easy. Simply cut down both sides of the torque rods and lift the biece out of it. Make the cut about 1/8" wide and remove the piece. Remove the 2mm torque rods and replace them with one bent from a 4-40 Dubro threaded rod bent to the same dimensions that the 2mm were bent. Put them in the slot and put the 1/8" piece back in the slot. Press it down on the new rod and Ca it in place with thick Ca. Do not glue the 4-40 rod. Carefully drill the holes in the ailerons to 3/32. Install ailerons as instructions.

Changes for the both versions:
Mix epoxy and micro balloons and make a fillet between the wing hold-downs and the fuselage. Drill holes through the fuse into the hold-downs through the fuselage and pin them with epoxy covered round toothpicks. You should also do the same thing with the landing gear plate. Just to be on the safe side.

Good stuff.
Instead of bringing the wood pushrods out the top of the fuselage, I suggest
the following.

Sharpen a piece of1/8" brass tubing and use it to cut holes in the side of
the fuse under the stab on the angle that the pushrods would exit the fuse.
Use two pieces of Dubro 4-40 threaded rod to make control horns that fasten
to the elevators and go to the bottom. Bend them so that they are about 1/8"
from the side of the fuse and run free for their arch. Then make up carbon
PushRods with the 2-55 threaded rod long enough to go through and exit the
fuselage. Install ball links on the control horns and attach the PushRod.
The extra that you cut off the 2-56 threaded rod should be glued into the
other end of the PushRod and made to a Z bend to attach to the servo.

Changes recommended for the new version:
The new version still needs a couple of things to insure longevity. Do pin
the firewall and the landing gear blocks with round toothpicks. Also put a piece of 3/8" triangle stock under the wing hold downs and glue well. Tap the metric wing hold downs to 1/4-20 for ease of replacement.